My penny plain contact print frame, front and rear view.
A glass plate, cardboard of the same size as the glass, 4 clamps and some tape.
The cardboard is cut halfway through and reinforced on the back by some tape.
Open contact print frame for inspection of progress.
Some links to more elaborate DIY constructions:
@ Alternative Photography
@ Camera obscura
A concise handout about the process get started ( workshop on cyanotype):
There are numerous internet sites which propose how to produce a digital negative.
Christina Z. Anderson
MP Photography (especially cyanotype)
Eyes On Photography (especially cyanotype)
And of course on paper see references in previous post.
A concise handout to get started ( workshop on cyanotype):
Use adjustable coathangers and hang the sensitized paper in a coat closet protected from light .
This technique is especially usefull for sensitized textile. The lower hanger may be weighted for stretching!
An alternative is to use a paper box with an iron plate at the base. Small magnets keep the paper in place and prevent buckling (depends on number of magnets and the humidity of the paper). Be carefull not to touch the sensitized part and cover the iron plate with some plastic (e.g. plastic bag) to prevent unwanted chemical reactions.
Lace is a very interesting material to use in a photogram on cyanotype paper.
see also Grape leaves, a toned cyanotype of lace in the form of grape leaves.
Sunny day today! Preparing a workshop on cyanotype printing. So out into the garden.
The idea to print plants by the cyanotype process dates back to the 19th century when Anna Atkins published the first ever book with photographic reproductions of plants (Photographs of British Algae: Cyanotype Impressions).
Yesterday I sensitized some paper with the cyanotype mixture (J. M. Eder: Rezepte, Tabellen und Arbeitsvorschriften für Photographie und Reproduktionstechnik, Verlag von Wilhem Knapp, Halle (Saale), 1942, 18.-19. Auflage, p.225) and had it to dry overnight.
Today picked up some plants (there are plenty) and put them under glass to press them firmly onto the paper for good contact in order to have clear contours. Five minutes exposure were sufficient to get some results.
Next step: wash out the unused chemicals (more or less 20 minutes).
As I wasn’t happy with the colour I added some hydrogen peroxide (10% solution to the water.)
Now the very last step: let it dry.
More on cyanotype:
- Ammonium iron(III) citrate (‘green’ variety) (important: iron(III), green)
- Potassium ferricyanide (important: ferri not ferro) –> [Red Prussiate of Potash, rotes Blutlaugensalz, ferricyanure de potassium]